Sewing Basics

Hand Stitches

Running Stitch—Basic in-and-out; basting and gathering

Backstitch—Strong continuous seam; looks machine-made

Whip Stitch—Joins two edges; used for appliqué

Blanket Stitch—Decorative edge finish; prevents fraying

Slip Stitch (Ladder)—Invisible closing; hems and linings

Cross Stitch—Decorative X-shaped embroidery stitch

French Knot—Small raised dot; embroidery accent

Catch Stitch (Herringbone)—Flexible hem for stretch fabrics

Machine Stitches

Straight Stitch—Default stitch; seams and topstitching

Zigzag Stitch—Stretch seams, edge finishing, appliqué

Overlock/Serge—Trims and finishes edges in one pass

Buttonhole Stitch—Automatic or 4-step buttonhole creation

Blind Hem—Nearly invisible machine hem

Stretch Stitch—Lightning bolt pattern for knit fabrics

Basting Stitch—Long straight stitch; temporary hold

Tools

Fabric Scissors—Sharp shears; never cut paper with them

Rotary Cutter—Rolling blade for precise straight cuts

Seam Ripper—Removes stitches; sharp pointed hook

Pins & Clips—Hold fabric layers together for sewing

Measuring Tape—Flexible 60" tape for body measurements

Iron & Board—Press seams flat; essential for neat results

Tailor's Chalk—Mark fabric; brushes off or washes out

Pinking Shears—Zigzag cut edges to reduce fraying

Fabric Types

Cotton—Easy to sew, breathable, holds shape well

Linen—Lightweight, strong, wrinkles easily

Denim—Heavy cotton twill; use heavy-duty needle

Jersey/Knit—Stretchy; use ballpoint needle, zigzag stitch

Silk—Delicate, slippery; use fine needle, hold with clips

Wool—Warm, can felt; dry clean or hand wash

Polyester—Durable, wrinkle-resistant, low shrink

Fleece—Soft, warm, no-fray edges; easy for beginners

Measurements

Seam Allowance—Standard ⅝" (1.5 cm); pattern specifies

Grain Line—Parallel to selvage; fabric hangs straight

Cross Grain—Perpendicular to selvage; slight stretch

Bias—45° diagonal; maximum stretch, drapes well

Selvage—Factory-finished edge; don't include in seams

Hem Allowance—Extra fabric folded under; usually 1-2"

Ease—Extra room beyond body measurement for comfort

Needle Sizes

9/65 (Fine)—Silk, chiffon, organza

11/75 (Medium-Fine)—Cotton, linen, light fabrics

14/90 (Medium)—Most woven fabrics, quilting

16/100 (Medium-Heavy)—Denim, canvas, upholstery

18/110 (Heavy)—Very heavy fabrics, leather

Ballpoint—Knits and stretch fabrics

Universal—Good general-purpose needle

Leather/Wedge—Cuts through leather and vinyl

Thread Types

All-Purpose Polyester—Strong, slight stretch; works on most fabrics

Cotton Thread—Natural fiber; quilting and cotton fabrics

Silk Thread—Fine, strong; tailoring and delicate fabrics

Woolly Nylon—Stretchy; serger/overlock for knit fabrics

Embroidery Floss—6-strand divisible thread for hand embroidery

Topstitching Thread—Heavy weight for visible decorative stitching

Troubleshooting

Skipped Stitches—Change needle; wrong type or dull

Thread Bunching Under—Rethread upper thread; check bobbin tension

Fabric Puckering—Reduce tension; use correct needle size

Broken Needle—Wrong needle for fabric weight; replace

Uneven Stitches—Clean feed dogs; check thread path

Thread Breaking—Poor quality thread or tension too tight

Bobbin Jamming—Clean lint from bobbin case; rewind evenly

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